Engine Removal
Now onto the V6. Removal of the engine from the donor car took me about 8 hours. Disconnecting everything and labelling everything then using a hoist to lower the engine and engine subframe (suspension crossmember & engine mounts) out of the bottom of the car.
I ran the engine when it was in the car and it used a bit of water while running for 1/2 hour, and there wasn't any water leaking anywhere so i suspected head gaskets. After research on the net, these engines are known to have head gasket issues around 200,000k's so decided on a top end rebuild.
Dissasembly
First up took heaps of pictures of the engine at all angles so that when I re-assembled, I could refer to the images to figure out where everything went. Here's a heap of images of dissasembly.
The heads were pulled and the block cleaned mating face cleaned off with razor & finished with 800grit wet/dry sandpaper with a flat edge. The heads were sent off to a local head machining shop and found out that one of the heads was corroded to a point where it could not be repaired where it mates with the intake manifold. 2 second hand heads later I arrived with 2 fully reconditioned heads for less than $500. then onto re-assembly.
All up the top end rebuild kit + head rebuild cost me less than $1k
Posted on 19.06.2014
Hi,
ReplyDeleteFantastic efort and quality write up..
How do you un-stake the lock-nut next to 5th gear?
I mean where the thin edge of the lock-nut is pressed into the key-way to keep it in place.
I broke a chisel-nosed punch last time I was trying to 'un-press' it.
I suppose I could cut it off carefully and buy a new one from Toyota..
Thoughts/suggestions?
I bought a new nut, but probably didnt need to though. Unstaking the nut was done with an old flat head screwdriver, punch and hammer. The nut is soft metal so shouldnt take too much. Just keep working at it and you will bend it out
ReplyDeleteThanks - will keep that in mind.. Don't recall the one I tried being soft at all , but persistence will win the day..
ReplyDeleteI gave up on the last effort - Had to move house.
ReplyDeleteJust bought an E153 FROM V6 1MZ-FE CAMRY will be mating it to Corolla 4wd bell housing and 4wd transfer case (which is virtually identical to Rav4)
Might have some more questions.
If it's OK to ask, where in Australia are you based?
Thanks.
should be strong enough, rear diff in the corolla/Rav is the next weakest part of the driveline. Live near Adelaide. Have a good look at those photo's where I've grinded the block. You'll need to grind it back the same amount to fit the transfer case in. There's not much of the bottom flange of the engine left to seal against the oil pan, but using plenty of blue gasket goo on it completley sealed it up for me, haven't had any problems with oil leaks at all.
DeletePlease contact me , My name is Andrés, I'm from Spain .
ReplyDeleteI think you know a lot of things about those gearbox.
Anybody in Spain know so much , I have contact to everybody.
Please help me , this is my email : djpeloloco@gmail.com
Great information and your conversion is awesome! Your detailed blog was the key in executing a 4vzfe swap into a 88 Camry alltrac with a 5sd gearbox! Thanks !!
ReplyDeleteI know that this question might be a little out of your line but I hope you can help. I have a 1997 2WD Toyota RAV4 with the E250 Transaxle. Do you know which Cusco LSD will work on my RAV4 transaxle?
ReplyDelete